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Overhead view of seafood dishes in Cassis: grilled fish, lobster linguine and Mediterranean plates

Le Bistrot de Nino's journal

What to eat in Cassis?local specialities, from harbour to vineyard

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Cassis is as much to taste as to visit. The harbour, the fishing, the terraced vineyards above the bay: here's what to eat to say you've really been.

In short

In Cassis, you eat what the sea brings: rockfish and prized fish (bream, sea bass, red mullet, John Dory, depending on the catch), grilled or cooked whole, with fish soup, rouille and aioli. Winter is sea urchin season along the coast. Bouillabaisse is a Marseille speciality worth knowing, but beware of cheap versions. Pair it all with AOC Cassis white wine and finish with a navette biscuit.

Illustration of Cassis harbour, from fishing village to today's port

Before sitting down

Why Cassis hasa real food identity

A fishing port before a postcard

Cassis was a fishing village long before the tourist boats. Its cooking comes from the catch: few ingredients, very fresh produce.

A few colourful pointu boats are still moored in the harbour, and eating well here still means eating fish.

Read more about the history of Cassis harbour.

Sea, garrigue and vines

Three pillars: the sea, wild herbs and olive oil, and the vineyards on the terraces above the bay.

A fish, olive oil, herbs and a glass of chilled white: that's most local plates.

The basis of the table

Mediterranean fish,the heart of Cassis cooking

If you eat one thing in Cassis, make it a fresh fish, simply cooked.

Illustration of a fresh Mediterranean fish with bright eyes and red gills
  1. 01

    Rockfish and prized fish

    Small rockfish go into soup; bream, sea bass, red mullet or John Dory are eaten whole, depending on the catch.

  2. 02

    Grilled, baked, whole

    Grilling with olive oil and sea salt is king; cooking on the bone keeps the fish moist.

  3. 03

    Whole fish filleted at the table

    The fish is presented whole, then filleted in front of you: a ritual worth trying once.

See whole fish filleted at the table and our article how to enjoy a whole fish.

By the rocks

Shellfish, crustaceansand sea urchins

Seafood from the coast

Mussels and razor clams, often gratinated Provençal-style, are the classic start to a meal on the harbour.

Shellfish are best in cooler months; always ask where they come from.

See our shellfish and crustaceans.

Sea urchins, a winter tradition

Sea urchin fishing is regulated and only allowed during the colder months.

Local villages hold sea urchin festivals in winter; check with tourist offices for dates.

Illustration of a seafood platter with a glass of white wine

What you'll be offered

Provençal classicsto know before ordering

Not all born in Cassis, but served all along the coast.

  • 01

    Bouillabaisse, a Marseille speciality

    A Marseille fishermen's dish codified by a 1980 charter: several rockfish, served in two stages. A real one can't be cheap. We don't serve it: our kitchen focuses on the fish of the day.

  • 02

    Fish soup, rouille, aioli, tapenade, panisses

    The southern essentials, from garlic aioli to chickpea panisses.

  • 03

    Sweet side: navettes

    Boat-shaped orange-blossom biscuits from Marseille, easy to take home.

Road descending to Cassis between pines and vineyards

The glass to match

Cassis white wine,the natural pairing

AOC since 1936, Cassis mainly produces fresh, slightly saline whites from marsanne and clairette.

The obvious match for grilled fish and shellfish, by the glass or bottle on our list.

Read about Cassis AOC wines, our guide to wine and fish pairings, and see our wine list.

View from a restaurant terrace over Cassis harbour, boats and cliff

From morning to sunset

What to eat in Cassisby time of day

Market in the morning, lunch on the harbour, dinner on the terrace.

  1. 01

    At the morning market

    Olives, tapenade, goat cheese and fruit for a picnic. See the Cassis market.

  2. 02

    Lunch facing the harbour

    After the calanques, share some shellfish then a grilled fish. Plan your morning with boat trips to the calanques.

  3. 03

    Drinks and dinner as the harbour lights up

    Take your time with fish soup and a whole fish on a sea-view terrace on the harbour.

Walking back? Read hiking the Cassis calanques.

Through the year

What to eat in Cassisby season

Lighter grilled fish in summer, heartier fish and soups in autumn, sea urchins in winter.

In any season, ask for the fish of the day.

Harbour tips

Our tips to eat wellin Cassis

A few simple habits to eat well at a fair price.

  • 01

    Ask about the catch

    A good place knows what came in today.

  • 02

    Beware of low prices

    Cheap specialities often hide frozen produce.

  • 03

    Book in high season

    The harbour is full from June to September.

  • 04

    Come early or late

    Best chance of a harbourside table.

  • 05

    Share

    A whole fish for two is generous and convivial.

  • 06

    Try local wine

    A glass of Cassis white suits the plate.

With us, on the quay

Tasting Cassisat Le Bistrot de Nino

A harbour institution since 1962, named in tribute to Nino: Mediterranean, family cooking centred on fresh fish.

Depending on the current menu: rock fish soup, gratinated mussels, grilled whole sea bream, sea bass or rock sole, and a daily suggestion.

On the largest terrace in Cassis, shaded and facing the harbour. Dogs welcome.

Discover our fish specialities or browse the menu.

Table set on a terrace facing Cassis harbour and its boats

Your questions

What to eat in Cassis: FAQ

  • What is the speciality of Cassis?

    Mediterranean fish, grilled whole or in soup with rouille and aioli, plus AOC Cassis white wine. Bouillabaisse is a Marseille speciality.

  • What wine to drink in Cassis?

    AOC Cassis white, fresh and slightly saline, mainly from marsanne and clairette.

  • Where to taste fresh fish on Cassis harbour?

    Pick a place that shows you the day's catch. At Le Bistrot de Nino, whole grilled fish follow the catch, on a large harbour terrace.

  • When to eat sea urchins in Provence?

    In winter: fishing is regulated and only allowed in the colder months.

  • Can you eat on a harbour terrace all year?

    Yes, the climate allows it most of the year. Opening hours vary by season.

Going further

Fish, our harbour speciality

Ready to taste? Discover our fish specialities restaurant in Cassis: whole grilled fish and a daily suggestion facing the harbour.

A question, a group?

Write to us,we reply quickly

A family table, a group request or a question about the menu: leave us a message.

For urgent requests, calling us is the fastest way.

Fancy tasting Cassisfacing the harbour?

Discover the menu and book your table at Le Bistrot de Nino.

Discover the menu